From The Inertia
Photo by me
I’m writing this from a hammock. It’s strung between two palms brimming with coconuts on a deserted beach in South America. I’m facing away from the water while I type, strategically placing my head out of the drop-zone of said coconuts, lest one should fall and crack open my skull. More people die from falling coconuts each year than shark attacks, so the story goes. Behind me the waves look fun and punchy, but the onshores are up and I’m surfed out. I’ve been here five days and I’ve had 10 long sessions. The waves have hovered around the two-to-three-foot mark and I’ve been barrelled every day. If you’d told me a week ago that I’d score these conditions in Colombia, I would’ve laughed at you.